Dry-cured hams
Dry-cured hams—such as prosciutto, speck, serrano and Bayonne—are specialty products that are preserved through a salting and drying process. Once they’ve been salted and dried, their water content is so low that it won’t allow bacteria to grow. The implications of this? There’s no need for additives to preserve them; salt alone is enough. The price of dry-cured hams is high because they need to be dried for several months.
Prosciutto
Prosciutto (which simply means ham in Italian) is made from the entire pork leg. Generally, prosciutto crudo refers to this product, while prosciutto cotto refers to cooked ham. Depending on its origin, prosciutto has a mild and delicate flavour, with a gamy aftertaste.
Preparation
Only certain pig breeds that are raised in specific regions of Italy are used to make prosciutto. Generally, the pig legs are salted without the addition of water, nitrites or other additives, and are then hung to dry for several weeks. After this salting period, the leg ages according to traditional methods: about one month of aging per each kilo of the leg’s weight at the start. Given that the average weight is 13 to 15 kg, the curing process can be over a year long. Italy has several protected designation of origin labels. On our side of the Atlantic, we’re most familiar with Parma and San Daniele prosciutti. As their production methods and locations differ, there are subtle variations in their flavour, texture and colour.
Canadian prosciutto
Even though prosciutto is of Italian origin, Canada also produces prosciutto-type hams. Some manufacturers even use the term San Daniele on their packaging as a marketing tool. So how can you tell if the prosciutto you’re buying is Italian or Canadian? Be sure to look for “Product of Italy” on the label. Another clue is the price. Canadian-made products cost about half as much. That said, Canadian prosciutti are actually quite good, so don’t hesitate to give them a try.
Open-Faced Sandwiches
Tomato, Olive and Prosciutto Toast
Speck
This is simply raw prosciutto that’s been smoked and peppered.
Serrano ham
This ham of Spanish origin is made the same way as prosciutto, simply by salting and drying. The word “serrano” comes from sierra (“mountain”), given that the white pigs used to make this superb ham are raised in the Spanish mountains. Iberico ham, another raw ham from Spain, is made from black pigs.
Sandwiches
Bocadillos (Spanish-Style Sandwiches)
Bayonne ham
Produced in the Southwest of France, this ham is the most well-known ham in the country. To prepare it, producers salt and dry the pork leg like prosciutto. The only difference is that saltpeter, a type of nitrate, is used, but this is not always the case. It can also be rubbed with ground pepper and Espelette pepper.
The use of nitrites and nitrates in the production of charcuterie and deli meats is nothing new: saltpeter (or potassium nitrate) has been used for centuries to preserve meats and protect them from the growth of clostridium botulinum bacteria, which is responsible for botulism.
We’ve known for some time that these preservatives are potentially harmful to people’s health, particularly regarding cancer risks. The nitrites and nitrates themselves are not dangerous, but rather the nitrosamines, which form from these two compounds during digestion. To minimize the risks, Health Canada has reduced the amount of nitrites allowed in the production of charcuterie products and deli meats.
For their part, many manufacturers have adopted the use of celery extract, a naturally nitrite-rich ingredient, to replace nitrites and nitrates in their products. To keep from misleading consumers, the labels on these products now state “no nitrites or nitrates added,” except for nitrites naturally present in the added ingredients. It’s a good effort, but does not necessarily mean that the product is free of nitrites and nitrates, compared to traditional products. This is why researchers are always working on new ways to preserve deli meats that are actually free of nitrites and nitrates. Stay tuned…
Cooked hams
Cooked hams are among the most popular types of ham in North America. Unlike dry-cured hams, these hams contain a lot of moisture—which is partly due to the liquid brining process—and are cooked prior to being sold.
The temperature and cooking duration of the ham aren’t always elevated enough to destroy the spores of the clostridium botulinum bacteria. The consequence of this? The bacteria could develop in vacuum-sealed packaging. Given that the bacteria growth is a real threat, manufacturers resort to using additives like nitrites and nitrates to preserve the ham.
The quality of cooked hams varies greatly and is reflected in the price per kilo. In effect, through the brining process, the weight of the meat increases as it absorbs water. Note that terms such as “rustic,” “country style,” “homemade,” “traditional” and “authentic” are not standardized and aren’t necessarily a mark of quality.
Checking the protein percentage
To verify a cooked ham’s quality, your best indicator is the meat’s protein percentage, which must be clearly stated on the label. Initially, raw pork naturally contains about 22% protein. This number decreases when brining the meat, as its muscle fibres absorb and retain the brine in their cells, which then dilutes the natural protein content. Once the meat has been processed into ham, its protein content drops to around 12 to 21%. A ham that shows a 12% protein content has had up to 60% of added water! It’s therefore no surprise that these hams are often the cheapest.
Leftover Recipes
Potato and Ham Croquettes
budget recipes
Asparagus and Ham Gnocchi
Low-cost processed cooked hams
These hams are made using various pork pieces, sourced especially from the rump of the animal. Brine is injected into the meat pieces, which are then placed in a tumbler with water, salt, sodium phosphates, nitrites and other seasonings.This creates a soft paste that has a more or less uniform consistency, and is then moulded into rectangular or round shapes before cooking.
When examining heavily processed hams closely, it’s impossible to distinguish the natural muscle fibres of the meat. The ham is also very wet and releases liquid inside the packaging.
The protein percentage listed on the packaging typically ranges from 12 to 15%. This is an indication that a significant amount of water has been added.
Premium cooked hams
These hams, which retain their natural shape, are usually prepared using whole pork legs rather than a mixture of meat scraps. These hams are more expensive per kilo than low-cost processed hams because their weight is not increased by an addition of water.
The proof? The protein percentage indicated on the packaging varies between 20 and 21%. This is very close to the natural protein content of pork. Another sign of quality is that, when you look closely, you can still notice the natural muscle fibres of the meat.
Once they’ve been sliced, cooked hams don’t last indefinitely! Here are a few guidelines to follow:
Pre-sliced cooked ham, packaged in a factory: Check the “best before” date on the packaging when purchasing and choose one with the latest date possible. It’s important to note that, once the package is open, this date no longer applies. The ham should be eaten within four to five days.
Cooked ham sliced in store by a deli worker: Should be consumed within four to five days of purchase. Always seal the packaging tightly to keep the ham from drying out.
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